Art of Travel: An American Girl in Paris (Part Deux)

Here in Paris, I have experienced a wide range of emotions: happiness, sadness, giddiness, homesickness, excitement, frustration, and I could go on and on… However, this being said, coming to Paris has been an absolutely amazing experience all around! Yes, there have most definitely been times that were better than others and even times when I questioned my decision, but as the semester draws to a close I would have to say that no matter what, Paris has been and will be an important of my undergraduate career as well as my life.

Thinking about all the things that I have had the opportunity to do over the course of the semester makes me feel so lucky: riding a golf cart around the grounds of a castle, seeing the Ballet (multiple times) at the beautiful Palais Garnier, eating several gourmet meals (on NYU’s tab), riding on the back of a moped at sunset, and making friends with Parisians and American who I may have never met otherwise. Thinking back on all these things, it’s hard to believe that I did it all in one semester and that there are many people who will never get the chance to do these things in a lifetime.

This course has really helped me to put me to put everything in perspective and appreciate my own unique experience. At times I would feel bad for being homesick or frustrated with life in Paris but when I came on the Place Studies website I could see how other people, who I could relate to, having similar problems and remind myself that this was just a part of study abroad in general not a reflection of my time in Paris. Also, reading everyone’s posts was often times inspiring! When I saw someone doing something really cool, I wanted to go out and do something equally as exciting and I could read the blogs of fellow NYU Paris(ers) to see what they were up to and maybe add their adventures onto my own list of things to do.

I know that when I get home and start showing all my friends and family my pictures and souvenirs, there are going to be little things that I start to miss about Paris in the same way that I have so many things I miss about America and New York. Most of all, I think I will just appreciate Americans a lot more and the security that comes with knowing how to get everything that you want when you want it. I will also appreciate being able to express myself completely. My French is very good at this point, but there are still times when I don’t feel like I can explain myself fully. I can always communicate an idea but there are certain ways to nuance what you are saying or elaborate that I am lacking from my French communication skills.

Many of you may or may not have caught the title of my first post, “An American Girl in Paris Part One.” This was a play of the title of the series finale of “Sex and the City,” when Carrie goes to Paris with The Russian. Much like Carrie, I came to Paris not having any friends, taking the plunge on my own and prepared to spend some time learning about myself and expanding my horizons. I was drawn to Paris for the Rich cultural history and, of course, the fashion and shopping. I thought the magic of Paris meant that everything would be perfect all the time but just like Carrie I learned that even one of the most beautiful cities in the world cannot replace the things closest to your heart and that at the end of the day, I am meant to be in New York. So to conclude my final post for this class I will end with another “Sex and the City” allusion, “There are those that open you up to something new and exotic, those that are old and familiar, those that bring up lots of questions, those that bring you somewhere unexpected, those that bring you far from where you started, and those that bring you back,” a quote from Carrie to describe relationships, but one that I feel can also sum up our experiences abroad.

Strasbourg: La Capitale de Noël

This past weekend I completed the last of my journeys for my time here in France. Cassie, Caitlin and I took a nice little over night trip to Strasbourg. Now you may ask, "why Strasbourg?" Aside from being a quaint little town in Alsace, the eastern region of France closest to Germany, it is the Christmas capitol of the world! This is to say that hey have Christmas decorations up ALL OVER the city. Lights of every street. Every shop front decorated. annnnnd They have the biggest Christmas market that has been happening every year since 1570!!!

When we heard about the Christmas festival, we decided that Strasbourg would be the perfect final trip to take, at the start of December to get us in the holiday spirit and I have to say, of all the trips that we took I think that Strasbourg may have been my favorite.

We left on Friday morning by train. (about a two and a half hour ride) After we arrived we made our way to the hotel, where we were greeted by a corridor, completely covered in lights, fake snow, and of course... stuffed polar bears?? It was precious, to say the least!

We spent the remainder of our day on Friday checking out all of the markets, sampling hot cider, and other traditional Strasbourg Christmas treats. The markets were cool there are several small ones scattered throughout the city that each have their own unique feel, but there wasn't that much there that I loved. Or at least nothing that I didn't feel like I could get at the market on the Champs Élysées, aside from the wonderful Christmas bredle (little cookies) market, and the tastes of Alsace market. Still I loved perusing the stalls and taking in the Christmas spirit... nice Jewish girl for ya!

I loved that everyone was so cheery and happy because like in any big city, I don't think you get too much of that in Paris.

There wasn't too much else to the trip besides a little more sightseeing and eating, but it was relaxing and completely enjoyable! I also have decided that I LOVE traveling by train. So much more roomy than a plane and no stress of the airport or checking baggage aka weight limits to worry about (one of the things on the top of my mind at the moment)... Are there any trains that cross the Atlantic?!?!

Weekend in Prague

With the end of the semester drawing to a close I have been super busy with school stuff, which means that unfortunately I haven't had time to write about some of my latest adventures... ones that have taken me outside of Paris.

I would like to start off this massive update by sharing the trip I took to Prague over Thanksgiving weekend. I have already talked a little bit about this trip in m previous post about my Thanksgiving experience here is Paris, but I thought it might be nice to go into a little more detail!

Day 1:

On Friday morning we got up bright and early to go catch the Beauvais but that takes you to the airport a little over an hour outside the city. After a nice little nap on the bus, we made it to the airport checked in and had just enough time to grab a bite to eat before we boarded the plane for the hour and a half flight to Prague. Once we landed, in disbelief that we were finally on our much awaited trip, we caught a cab and made our way to the hotel. Then we set out to explore Prague. We were so shocked by how much smaller Prague is in comparison to Paris (which I will say again is absolutely massive) Anyways... Our first stop was Old Town Square to see the Astronomical clock. We also saw that they were starting to set up an awesome Christmas market, which we came back to visit the next day.

After walking around for a while and taking in some of the sites, we went back to the hotel to freshen up and get ready for dinner.

At the hotel we also decided to try another Prague "delicacy" Absinth, which is not sold in the states or most other places in Europe. Unfortunately this was not very exciting and mostly I just think that it tastes absolute revolting but there goes something to check off the list of things to do before I die.

My friend Nolan is studying abroad in Prague the semester so I was hoping that we would have the chance to meet up with him and his friends to go out, but I hadn't heard from him so we set out on our own had dinner and then picked a random bar from the suggestions on the NYU Prague website... Shock when we actually ran into Nolan!! This ended up to be great, we all went out and they showed us some of the places where they liked to go. We enjoyed a night of dancing with random Czech strangers and sampling the local beer, despite the fact that I don't like beer...

Needless to say after our day of traveling and site seeing we were pretty exhausted, so we headed home fairly early and tried to get some sleep in before it was time to get up and do it all over again.

Day 2:

We got up early enough on Saturday morning to catch the breakfast that was included in the price of our room and then we set out to do some more sightseeing. We passed through Old Town Square again and the Christmas market was up and running so we perused the stalls before continuing on the Charles Bridge.

After leisurely crossing Charles bridge and taking in the picturesque views of Prague, we climbed the hill all the way up to Prague Castle, which was really beautiful and from the top of the hill we could see more incredible views of the entire city. After we toured the castle and cathedral a little bit we climbed back down and found the most adorable place to have (a very late) brunch and warm up for a little while.

By the time we were done it was starting to get dark outside (it gets dark reallly early in Prague) so we headed back to the center of town to complete our search for souvenirs and such before calling it a night because our flight left super early the next morning.

Day 3:

We left Prague at 9:30 AM. After the morning of traveling I have to say that I was pretty glad to finally make it back to Paris and home. Traveling is wonderful but I was absolutely exhausted and ready to relax in my apartment for a little while! I have to say though, that Prague was the perfect place for a weekend trip. We had just enough time to see the main sites that we wanted to check out and get a good idea of the Czech culture! I would recommend Prague to anyone looking for a fun weekend trip!

Art of Travel: A Bit of Advice...

Going abroad is an important decision to any college student and is certainly not one that should be taken lightly. For those who are considering going abroad, I would recommend it 100%. It’s a great chance to get out of your personal bubble a little bit and experience something completely different from that to which accustomed, which is important for us all to do at certain times in our lives. As far as study abroad sites go, I would also happily recommend Paris but give some strong advice about how approach the opportunity.

If you are letting NYU do your housing, be as specific as possible on the housing information sheet. If you think you may have any preferences, go ahead and let them know! I thought that requesting a roommate would be enough to ensure that I would have one, but I was wrong and not living with someone is one of my biggest regrets from the semester. Especially if you are living alone for the first time, consider that doing it in another country may not be the best time. (no matter how independent you may think you are it’s nice to be able to share your experiences, good and bad, with someone at the end of the day) If you are not set on letting NYU do your housing, I would highly suggest finding a place on your own. The people who I know that did this got to live right where they wanted, with who they want, and for the price that they wanted- It’s not as hard as you might think. Basically what I am saying is be happy with whatever your living situation is going to be because no matter what, this is where you are ending your days and it is a good idea to end on a happy note.

Secondly, I would like to leave a note about packing. I am the QUEEN of over packing and this was one of my biggest concerns before I left. I would recommend bringing lots of layers. Paris has fickle weather and sometimes it can be really cold in the morning but then perfectly warm and sunny by the afternoon, so it is best to prepared! (this also means an umbrella that is small enough to keep with you all the times) This will also help you not to pack as much stuff because if you bring several things that you can wear multiple ways then it is easy to wear the same thing multiple times without it being too obvious.

On the issue of money, the exchange rate is a killer! If you try translating things from euros to dollars you will quickly realize you are paying twice as much for everything. To avoid this headache and painful reminder of our flailing economy, plan a budget (and stick to it!!) IN EUROS. Also, if you are not planning to open a bank account in Paris I would suggest having a Bank of America account because then you can withdraw cash from BNP Paribas with zero problems. Make sure you find out about fees for all your debit and credit cards before you leave! I had problems with this upon my arrival and it made settling in much more stressful.

My biggest piece of advice is to not be too caught up in what you think the experience should be. Not everyone is required LOVE their site in the sense that you want to stay another semester or move back at some point. This is also to say that you shouldn’t feel like a failure if you don’t meet your future French husband, or Parisian BFF. While it is awesome to be able to immerse yourself in the culture, it really is pretty hard to meet people with whom you will actually have a lasting relationship. But, this being said, don’t be afraid to talk and mingle with the Parisians when you go out… you never know! Study abroad is different for everyone and the experience is really up to you. You will have a lot of free time, so be prepared. Possibly start a list before you arrive of things you could do on your own when you have some time on your hands. Finally, make the best of it and do as much as possible!

Oh yea... Do yourself and don't watch the movie Taken. Seriously.

Art of Travel: My First Thanksgiving Away From Home

This was my first Thanks- giving that I had ever spent away from home. I knew from the moment that I applied to go abroad Fall semester that this was a day that I would have to face sooner or later but it didn’t make it any easier, to be away from my family, friends and traditions of this holiday that I love so much.

Anyways, knowing that this was going to be a rough time for me, I decided well in advanced to make myself as busy as possible so that I wouldn’t have much time to think about missing real Thanksgiving in the U.S. This included a full day of errands to run, and class to attend. The day was to end with a Traditional Thanksgiving dinner, as promised by NYU in Paris, atop the Eiffel Tower and the next was to begin with a trip to Prague with two of my girlfriends for the remainder of the weekend.

I have to say, the entire weekend ended up being a great success! The dinner was absolutely wonderful and I was really impressed with NYU. They basically rented out the entire restaurant (the one that is on the first level, not the one at the very top) and somehow managed to get them to cook us a French version of Thanksgiving dinner. The food was great although perhaps not quite traditional! I sat at a huge table with my all of my closest friends in the program and enjoyed delicious wine and food.

Although the dinner was not the same as being at home with my family, I came to realize that I was having a once in a lifetime experience and I ended up having a wonderful time. How many other people can say that they ate their Thanksgiving dinner on the Eiffel Tower?

The next morning, my two friends and I left bright and early to go to Prague and we had a wonderful time. This was the first trip I went on outside of France, so I was really excited about it and Prague was the perfect place to pick. I felt like because it is a small city, especially relative to Paris, it was easy to see the sites get a general feel of the city within the time constraints of the weekend. Not to say that our days weren’t jam-packed but this just made for a really fun weekend and just the type of distraction that I was looking for!

From the Mountains of Grenoble to the Caves of Choranche

So now that November is nearing its end, I am finally getting to do a little traveling! Last weekend I went on an overnight trip with NYU to Grenoble, a city in France that lies in the foothills of the Alps.

NYU offers three different trips to students over the course of the semester, which are included in what we already pay for tuition) and everyone is guaranteed to go on at least one. Cassie, Caitlin, and I all signed up for Grenoble and we have been looking forward to it since the beginning of the semester.

DAY 1:

We met at the Gare Lyon at 7:20 (the earliest time I have seen in quite a while) to embark on the 3 hour journey to the south eastern area of France. After we arrived, we were able to go off on our own for a little while to explore and eat lunch before meeting to take the télépherique (a cable tram) up to the top of the Bastille (a fort). Once at the top, we spent the afternoon enjoying the fresh air and beautiful fall weather on top of a mountain including views of the Alps in the distance.

After playing around the Bastille, we headed back down the mountain and boarded the bus to take us to the Chartreuse liquor caves. These are the largest liquor caves in the world and home to the erie green liquor known as Chartreuse (obviously for it's color). We got to learn all about the distillation process and the history of the liquor, which is made by monks. Fun fact: at any given time, only two monks ever know the exact recipe and quantity of ingredients to make the liquor! NYU even arranged for us to have a little degustation after our tour. My review: the taste is pretty odd, maybe a mix between liquorish and herbs.

By this point we were all exhausted, but the day was definitely not over! We checked into the hotel and had about an hour to rest before it was time to head back up to the top of the Bastille to enjoy the views of Grenoble by night and have our wonderful dinner. First we met outside the restaurant, Chez le Per' Gras, to sip some mulled wine and taste olive bread (both specialties of the area) I loved the atmosphere of this as everyone was milling around. It was almost like a bonfire, without the fire... if that makes sense.

The dinner was a four course meal! We ate pumpkin soup with chestnuts to start, then we moved on the the main course, roclette. Roclette is a little bit like fondu, you melt the cheese in this contraption and then you dump it over potatoes. They also brought out a plate of various meats that you can mix into you potato/ cheese creation. (this dish is not for the faint of heart... I was preparing to have my friends to roll back down the mountain) If that wasn't enough, for dessert we were served a decadent Nougat ice cream, made with the Noix de Grenoble (a nut that comes from the region) Finally we had coffee and expresso, before heading back down to the hotel to promptly pass out. Did I mention that the wine never stopped coming over the course of this meal (including the new beaujolais vintage that all of France was going crazy over last weekend)??

DAY 2:

We woke up early again and had breakfast at our hotel before checking out and throwing all our bags on the bus. Then we went and met up with the group to go on a walking tour of the old

city of Grenoble. Honestly, I could have done without the walking tour, as I would have enjoyed having a little more free time to explore and shop on my own, but it was interesting none the

less.

After the walking tour we got on the bus to drive to Pont en Royans, a small but cute town with some of the most picturesque views! There didn't seem to be very much going on here, but we enjoyed walking around the town anyways and having a nice long lunch in a restaurant over looking a small river and waterfall. Although some other students did choose to do a little hiking... you all know that's not quite my style.

The last stop of the day was the caves in Choranche. This was probably my favorite thing, aside from the roclette dinner, although the drive up the narrow, winding, mountainous road in an enormous bus did not please me quite as much... These caves are huge and filled with stalactites and stalagmites. There is also tons of water in the cave, ranging from little pools to smallish lakes. I was really blown away by everything in here... nature at its finest!!

By the end of the day we were all WIPED. We made it back to the train station in Valence and waited for the train to come that would take us back to Paris. The train ride back was really enjoyable as we talked about all the great things that we got to do this weekend!

Next up: Prague!!

Art of Travel: Receptivity

After reading the de Botton chapter, “On Habitat,” I was rather struck by several things. First the quote that he implements at the very beginning, “the sole cause of man’s unhappiness is that he does not know how to stay quietly in his room,” really resonates with me at the moment. As I have previously mentioned in my blogs, I am currently living alone but to be honest, not really enjoying it. I love the city and all the great things that Paris has to offer, but at the end of the day I am always sad to leave my friends to go home to an empty apartment. And on days when I don’t have plans after class and I just come straight home it is even more annoying. Also because school here is so much less demanding than it is back in New York, I never really even have much homework to keep me occupied. I have come to think that my overall experience here in Paris might have been somewhat different if I had had a roommate with whom I could have taken in the trials and tribulations of daily life living abroad.

I always thought that I would like living alone, but I think that while abroad was probably not the right time to explore this theory. I think that this is partly because I came into the semester knowing very few people on the program and with none of my friends, whereas if I was living alone in New York I would have a much more established network of people as well as my rather hectic life to keep me busy.

De Botton also speaks of receptivity in this chapter, which also applies to my situation. When I first found out that I was going to be living alone, I decided the best way to approach the situation was with “receptivity.” I thought that maybe if I kept this open mind frame that maybe the situation would end up working out for the best and I would end up being happy that I opted to keep my studio. What I have really come to discover is that receptivity is very important when encountering a new place but perhaps not so important when it concerns you fixed habitat because this may ultimately dictate how you experience the rest of your surroundings.

Along with my personal and immediate habitat, I also think about the city itself, as it is my habitat. It has made me do a lot of comparison between how I experience my home city, Atlanta, as well as New York. I was struck by what de Botton says about home and “being more settled in our expectations, feeling assured that we have discovered everything interesting about our neighborhood,” but I would say that if anything, traveling has made appreciate home even more and think about the things that I have never gotten the chance to do or experience at home. It makes me want to make more of an effort when I return to try to experience all of the little things, like I do here in Paris.

Art of Travel: "Franck"

Like every big city, Paris has it’s share of homeless people. It’s funny how after living in an area for a while, you start to notice the same homeless people over and over again and you realize that while they may be homeless this is they have a neighborhood, the same as everyone else.

Last year, living in Carlyle, it was the couple outside of Whole Foods with the dog, and the year before that when I lived in U-Hall it was the old man who shouted “On the Catwalk” every time a pretty girl walked by. They become characters who are incorporated into our everyday lives even though we’ve probably never exchanged words or had much interaction with them. Sometimes I even find myself wondering if they recognize me by some weird trait or characteristic, as I do with them.

Well here in Paris, it is no different. On my walk to school each day, I tend to notice the same homeless people, or “sans abris.” However, there is one man who sticks out in my mind. I obviously don’t know his name, but for this entry’s purposes let’s call him “Franck.” I don’t know what it is about Franck that is so fascinating to me, but I have just been really intrigued by him ever since I first realized his presence. Franck looks exactly the same every day since the first time I saw him back in September. He wears a grey, wool, sweater/coat thing, he has a long full beard and crazy hair, and the longest finger nails that I have ever seen on a man. I guess as far as appearance goes he doesn’t look much different than any other homeless person that you would find. What gets me about Franck are his mannerisms.

When I see Franck, he is never just sitting on the ground with a cup for coins, like the others. He is always walking around. Right in the mix with everyone else, as if he has somewhere very important that he is going but he never actually goes anywhere. If you spend a significant amount of time out running errands on Rue de Passy, you will see him multiple times, always heading in a new direction or place. He just walks back and forth all day long. He never seems to be begging for money or food, just always walking around almost has if he is checking up on things. After all, it is his quartier too, right?

Les Frimousses de Créateurs

Moving right along to a much more pleasant subject...

While perusing the November issue of Vogue Paris, I came across a little article about a free exhibit being held at the Petit Palais. The article first caught my eye because of the adorable little doll that was pictured next to it. (I have been on the hunt for something great to bring back for Lila and Cokie and I thought maybe this was it) After reading the article I realized that this was probably not something I was going to be able to bring back, but it was really cool none the less.

The exhibition featured dolls that were each made especially for the exhibit by various designers and famous brands ranging from Christian Dior to Ikea in order to come together and raise money to help support unicef, the organization that provides aid to children in need.

The doll on the left was designed by Christian Dior

I hadn't really been to see the either Grand or Petit Palais up close yet, so I thought that this would be a good reason to finally make it over there, but the exhibit was only on display from Nov. 10-15 so I had to act quickly.

I totally loved this, and any little girl would have been in heaven! I have been to so many museums lately where you just walk around and look at the painting and after a while, for me at least, they all start to blend together and who knows who painted what and when. But this was like a different type of art, and of course it combined my love of fashion, so what was there not to enjoy. I thought it was awesome how each designer obviously had their own take on the task at hand. No two dolls were similar. Some were detailed and meticulously crafted, while others were simple and looked like something you would see in any little girl's room. I took lots of pictures so enjoy!

Gotta give it up for my main man Oscar de la Renta!

Even renowned lingerie designer Chantal Thomas made a doll!

This was my favorite doll! Designed by Georgio Armani

Life in Paris is Still Life...

So far pretty much everything that I have written about in this blog has been about my amazing experiences and all the fun that I have been having here in Paris. But I must admit, life in Paris is still life... not everything is perfect and there are still bad days and even bad weeks. I have had a little bit of trouble adjusting to this fact and letting myself be ok with the fact that I don't have to love every single aspect of Paris or be happy at all times. So in the spirit of keeping an accurate account of my adventures here in Paris, it is now time for me to share my experience from this past weekend even though it isn't happy and isn't going to make you jealous...

First of all I would like to preface this by saying that I have not enjoyed living alone. I like my apartment and I like the neighborhood, I love that I am so close to the school, but I would give these things up to have a roommate that I could come home to in a heartbeat.

That being said, this weekend I was feeling a little lonely so my friend Caitlin offered to sleep over last night. And thank God she did.

On our way home from the bars, around 1:30, not too late considering it was a Saturday night we were riding the metro, which has always seemed very safe to me because there is always an abundance of people riding with you. Anyways when we changed trains to make the final leg of the journey home, we happened to get on a car with about 10 young men, somewhat thuggish in appearance and behavior, most likely from the banlieue (suburbs outside Paris, not nice as a general rule) Anyways, one of them approached Caitlin and me and started talking to us and when we ignored him he got offended and persisted with us, becoming more and more creepy and threatening in his stance. He was smoking a cigarette and holding it in my face so I told him in French that I am allergic to the smoke and to please move his cigarette. His reply... taking long drag and blowing the smoke in our faces. After this, Caitlin and I decided to get off of the train, but he stood in our way so that we would have to physically push past him in order to get off. Once we were off we moved down to the next car so that there would be some distance between us. Then when we went to get off at our stop we could see them looking out the doors to see where we were so we stayed on the train until the whistle sounded to signify that the doors were closing and we jumped off, making sure that they were all behind the closed doors of the train.

This was definitely one of the scariest things that has ever happened to me and I was very disheartened by the whole thing. I couldn't stop thinking, "What if I had been alone?" Sure there were other people on the train and I really think that they guy was just trying to show off in front of his friends, but I didn't see anyone attempt to help or stop the situation.

I am usually pretty ok with the idea of taking the metro at night especially since the alternative is a taxi, which costs more than most of my meals, but I know that from now on I will not be foregoing my safety to save and extra 15€, and come to think about it, it's rather concerning that this is even something that I would have done in the first place.

Sorry for the bummer post.

Hill

Art of Travel: Love Affair With Georges

Of course, Paris is home to tons of amazing restaurants, but last weekend I had the chance to go to one that I felt has something special above the rest. And when I say “above,” that is literally what I mean…

“Georges” is the name of the restaurant that sits on the top floor of the George Pompidou Centre. I had heard good reviews about this restaurant from several people, including some Parisians, so I have been dying to go but waiting for the right occasion since it is definitely on the pricey side.

When my friend’s parents arrived last Sunday morning and wanted to take us out to dinner that night, we decided that this would be the perfect opportunity to try it out; that, and on top of that it was one of the only nice restaurants on our list that was actually open on Sundays.

When I reached the top floor and got out of the elevator, I was immediately in love. The view was simply spectacular. As you walk down the corridor to the entrance of the restaurant, you come to the terrace, which would probably be the optimal dining location, weather permitting, before you actually enter the restaurant. When I got inside I was escorted through the modernly chic room to the table where my friend and her family were waiting. The room is completely enclosed by glass walls, so no matter where you sit, you are privy to a 360-degree view of the city.

The restaurant fits in completely with the modern art that is housed in this museum. The ceiling is brightly painted with exposed air vents and beams and there are these giant cave-like structures placed around the large room that are painted silver. Inside these structures are larger tables, of the most unusual shapes, where you would sit if you had an exceptionally large party, or were of particular importance.

The tables are sleek and even sexy, each with a tall vase containing a single, long stemmed rose and instead of a candle there is a light that dimly beams from inside the table. The wait staff is equally sleek and sexy, and to be honest, I wouldn’t expect anything less.

After eating one of the best meals I have had since I have been here in Paris, (wine, truffle ravioli in a cream sauce, and cheesecake 10x better than what we have in America) gazing over the city, pointing out all the landmarks we could find, and “ohhing and ahhing” as we watched the Eiffel Tower sparkle in the distance, I couldn’t have felt more satisfied.

This wasn’t my first rooftop dining experience, as I went to “Le Zyriab,” which is on the roof of the Institute du Monde Arabe (and which I would also highly recommend) with a group of my friends to celebrate one of their birthdays; however, there was just something about “Georges.” Maybe because I am a sucker for ambiance and atmosphere, or perhaps it was because there was a much younger scene at “George” but whatever it was, it just clicked for me and I really hope I will be able to go back before I leave.

Moulin Rouge

This week my friend Cassie's parents are in town. They were nice enough to invite Caitlin and me to come along with them for a soirée à la Moulin Rouge.

The Moulin Rouge is a traditional French cabaret and it is QUITE the show. There are probably somewhere around 40 girls total in the cast and even a group of male dancers as well, which I was not expecting. The show consists of several acts, including the infamous Can-Can, filled with the most outrageous costumes and choreography that you have ever seen! And in between the big acts, there are little acts that come out, presumably while the sets and costumes are being changed. These acts included a Juggler, a Ventriloquist, and a rag doll duo.

I know that you probably think that the Moulin Rouge is sleazy, most people consider it to be more along the lines of a strip club, but that is not it at all. Yes, the girls are topless at some points, but for the most part is a normal show, that showcases all of these peoples' extraordinary talents.

In one of the acts there are live snakes in a tank and one of the dancers swims around with them. Another act has real, live, miniature ponies. And the ventriloquist makes a live dog look like it is talking.

My favorite part of the show had to be the costumes. Despite the somewhat risqué nature, all I wanted was my own chance to try them on! The best way I can describe them is like a vegas showgirl on crack. Huge headdresses, feathers, beads, glitter, they were INCREDIBLE. I wish that I could have taken some pictures, but unfortunately they don't let you bring camera's inside.

What's even more amazing to me is that I have heard from multiple Parisians that the Moulin

Rouge is actually not even the best of all the cabarets here in the city. Two different people

have told us that the Lido, on the Champs Élysées is the best, so Cassie and are buying tickets to see that one in a couple weeks!

Art of Travel: Weekend Delight

The open-air markets that come around every weekend have been something I have truly enjoyed during my time here in Paris. These markets have a large spectrum of wares and I have enjoyed learning about what each one has to offer as I have done my weekend explorations.

The markets range from high-end flea markets selling second hand designer merchandise, to garage sale-like markets with random junk for you to sift through, and of course fresh food markets where farmers bring in all the freshest produce and other quality food items.

One of the first markets that I heard about and wanted to explore was the St. Ouen flea market in one of the northern banlieues (suburbs) of Paris. This is actually the largest flea market in the world and composed of several small markets, each with its own unique feel and specialty. To get to the market you have to get off the metro at Porte Cligancourt, which to be honest, is definitely not the nicest area. It was a little tricky to find, with all of the vendors, selling crap reminiscent to that of china town, surrounding it trying to sell their wares to confused tourists. Once you get beyond the doors to one of the actual markets, it’s as if you are entering a completely different world. These markets sell everything from vintage furs to old books, from Chanel to antique furniture. You could never explore all of the markets in one day, but it is certainly worth the trip.

Last weekend some of my friends and I ventured to an area in the 13^th arrondissement, called Butte aux Cailles where we were told that we would be able to find some cute boutiques and specialty shops. It was an adorable little area to walk around but there actually wasn’t much in the way of cute shops however we did end up stumbling upon a random little market that resembled more of a community wide garage sale to me. Just like any garage sale, you had to hunt to find the treasures but they were certainly there and the prices were right. I came away with an antique looking bracelet for a mere 12€.

Finally there are the fantastic food markets. I went to the Marchée d’Aligre in the Bastille area this weekend and I would highly recommend it; however, on the weekends, you can find one in just about every arrondissement. Until recently, buying produce from a grocery store was completely unheard of in France. Everyone went to his or her local market to get all the freshest fruits and veggies direct from the farmers. While today it is more common and even acceptable to purchase your produce from the store, most people still frequent these markets. The produce is always extremely ripe and direct from the source, so the prices might be a little higher than what you see at the store but definitely worth it. However, buyers beware: it’s easy to get excited by all of the tasty looking things in these markets, but being overzealous when making your purchases can leave you with a whole lot of rotten fruits and vegetables before the next weekend even comes around. Because everything is so ripe and delicious, it will not keep for very long; so only buy what you are actually going to eat.

French Rock Concert

For one of my classes we have this thing called an "atelier" (workshop), which consists of a separate two hour class once a week. For the atelier we are basically doing a cultural exchange with one of the French Universities here is Paris where we get put into groups of 6 (half French half American) and we have to make a bilingual movie together. Really fun actually and perfect for my other goals involving French friends.

Earlier in the semester as we were introducing ourselves, one of the boys in my group told us that he is in a band and invited all of us to come see the concert that they were having in a few weeks.

Tonight was the night of the concert, so I went with my friend Cassie after our class. It was a really cool experience, although possibly not quite what I was envisioning. We arrived at 8PM, since that was the time it was advertised for (although, to be honest we should have known better having lived in Paris for 2 months now) Of course they didn't start playing until about 9:45PM. The venue was pretty cool, very underground Parisian, near Les Halles. However the bar was really crappy (unacceptable for a concert) they didn't even have limes for Cassie's vodka tonic... come 'on now! Once they started playing, I enjoyed hearing my friends band, which was very Rock and Roll. I have to say that ultimately I don't think that French and Rock go together. The group definitely has a lot of talent I just don't think that the French language goes with the Rock sound... but the covers of American Rock songs that they played were really great and Cassie and I had fun singing along (since we knew all the words)!!

It was definitely a fun and different for us. One of those very authentic Parisian experiences that only comes with having French friends to invite you to said events. I obviously was very happy and felt really cool to be there, especially since we were definitely the only Americans there!

Art of Travel: The Unexpected Obstacle Course

For my first reading for this class, I chose a book that gave a woman’s perspective on living in France for a year, so for my second choice, I decided to read a very similar story; however, from and man’s perspective. I originally thought that it would fun to compare the different perspectives of a man and woman who plan to spend a year in France. I also have to say that I was drawn to the book as well as highly intrigued by the title, A Year in the Merde (which translates to a year in the “shit”).

I couldn’t help but laugh when I realized that in part, the “merde” to which the author is referring is literally dog poop. It’s true; the dog poop here in Paris is quite the problem. Paris is definitely one of the most dog friendly cities in the world and don’t get me wrong, I love the pooches (and honestly wish I had one of my own here with me) but it’s the owners who I have a problem with.

Like the main character of the book, Paul West, I too have noticed that you can’t walk anywhere without going through the obstacle course of dog feces that litters the sidewalks. Also like Paul, I am highly disinterested in ruining my shoes after stepping in it, so I am constantly watching the ground, making sure that I don’t accidentally step into an unwanted surprise, which is a rather unfortunate thing to be doing when you are in a city with as many beautiful things to see as Paris.

I have decided to just accept the presence of dog poop as just yet another part of the Parisians’ blatant disregard for sidewalk etiquette. (i.e. stopping in the middle of the sidewalk, taking up the entire sidewalk, and of course, refusing to follow the “keep to the right” rule.) They just don’t clean up after their pets, despite the fact that there is a law against it and the owner faces a $600 fine if they are caught (not that there is ever anyone around to catch them…). Half the time they don’t even keep their dogs on a leash so how would they even know what the precious creature has left in its wake.

The city employs thousands of street sweepers who are supposed to take care of these little presents, but somehow it’s still a huge problem in everyday life and if these workers go on strike, you can just forget about it might as well slip on some of those little booties that you have to wear in the hospital.

Art of Travel: An Insider's Perspective

Since I arrived in Paris my ultimate quest has been to find French friends. For me, the idea of spending time with real, live Parisians seems like the most authentic thing that I could possibly do during my study abroad experience. I have this idea that if I hang out with young Parisians, this will be my key to all the other “back regions” of Paris, as MacCannell would put it.

It is also a very qualifying feeling to hang out with Parisians; a way to feel that you are assimilating into the culture rather than simply being a tourist, an outsider.

Being new to any city is always a hard feat to overcome. You never know right away where all the best things are: where to eat, where to party, where to shop? As a newcomer, especially in a foreign country, we are limited to travel guides and the recommendations our friends and family that have traveled to the same place before us. However, none of these recommendations ever seem good enough. We want to find the places where the locals go so that we can better disguise ourselves within the culture. I find myself constantly judging places by what the ratio of tourists to Parisians is inside. If there are a lot of tourists I don’t want to be associated with it and the more Parisians, the cooler I feel.

I feel that if I am able to find French friends, I will no longer have to rely on this ratio. They will take me out and show me all the things that I need to know, the secrets of their city. Those “back regions” which are only accessible to people in the know (or those who lack the dead give away: an American accent.) Perhaps an unassuming brasserie that just so happens to be better than all the rest, a bar that makes the most delicious mojitos you have ever tasted, or an unmarked restaurant tucked away behind closed doors? At least this is what I envision…

So far my quest for French friends has been somewhat of a success. I have managed to meet people through my classes and my nights out, who are usually enthralled with the fact that I come from NYC/ that I am American (so much for the French hating Americans… well at least the younger generation) and who are always happy to lend a reccomendation or two. Parfait!! However, I am still lacking the integration into an actual group and I am starting to think that this is possibly setting my sights a bit too high. Maybe I will settle for one French friend who I can crab a café with because no matter what I still feel that seeing the city from an insider’s perspective is what gives your experience the ultimate stamp of authenticity.

Cirque Plume

Tonight I took advantage of yet another "free" cultural event that NYU offers us. This event was to go see a show called Le Cirque Plume.

As usual, I was hesitant because I hadn't seen a lot of information about the show so I wasn't exactly sure what it was going to be like but the word "cirque" led me to believe that it would be somewhere along the lines of Cirque de Soleil.

Come to find out, not only is the show like Cirque du Soleil but it is actually the original in the whole "nouveau cirque" movement, which I like to refer to as the adult circus.

The show was really wonderful! It was held in a

big tent on the very edge of the

19th arrondisement (quite the trek from my apt. but definitel worth it!) Although it is not quite as grand as Cirque Du Soleil, some of the acts are very similar. And one thing that I liked about this show over Cirque du Soleil was that there was a sort of plot line and story that carried on over the different acts; it was slightly more theatrical rather than just the acrobatics. This specific version was all about art so the theme of artists and painting was carried on throughout the whole show.

After the show there is a front room of the tent, where you can get brochures about the show, but memorabilia (bien sur!) and there is a sort of concession stand, but it has legit food and there is a whole area filled with tables where you can sit. Since it was raining, my friends and I decided to stay, enjoy and a crepe, and chat for a while. It was a very warm and inviting atmosphere and even decorated to the point where you didn't feel like you were sitting in a circus tent.

Another great success in expanding my cultural horizons...

Art of Travel: Giverny: Biking and Being Artsy

This past weekend I went to Giverny with a couple of my friends for the day. Giverny is a little town about 45 minutes outside of Paris and it is famous for being the site of Claude Monet’s house and gardens. I heard from many friends who went earlier in the semester that it was completely worth it and absolutely beautiful so we decided that we would go before it is too cold to enjoy being outside.

We left on Saturday in the early afternoon from the Gare St. Lazare train station and arrived shortly after 1:00 PM in Vernon, which is the town closest to Giverny. From there you can take a taxi, bus, or bike to complete the journey. We decide that the Bike option sounded like the most fun, so we rented bikes and grabbed a map.

I had seen pictures from friends who opted to take the bikes as well so I was imagining a leisurely, scenic, and flowery ride of about 30 minutes. Of course, even though it was beautiful all morning and there was no sign of rain when I checked weather.com in the morning, it started to rain as soon as we got on our bikes. It didn’t rain very hard but it was enough to be obnoxious and make the bike ride slightly less pleasant than what I had anticipated.

Once we got there, the rain stopped and the sun came out. The rest of the afternoon was beautiful as we walked around the gardens and toured Monet’s home. We also brought some chalk pastels (borrowed from my sweet art teacher) along for our journey so that we could experience the gardens in a truly “Monet manner.” This was really fun but also really funny. I certainly do not claim to be an artist but I like to think that I can create some semblance of a nice picture if I put my mind to it, but pastels are a particularly difficult medium to work with and the final outcome wasn’t exactly what I would describe as beautiful. All the other people walking around the gardens kept stopping to look at what we were doing and it was funny to see their reactions when they realized that we were not actually very talented artists. Nonetheless I am really glad that we did this because it was a different experience from just walking around and forced me to really pay attention to the details of the place.

After several hours in the garden we started to get a little bit chilly so we headed to a quaint little inn to have some lunch and warm up. The inn was absolutely adorable and very quite so we enjoyed a nice, relaxing lunch before grabbing our bikes and heading back to the train station, when of course it started to rain again.

Despite the rain during our bike rides, Giverny was an absolutely wonderful place and I would recommend going to anyone who has the chance. It really gives you a new appreciation and perspective of all Monet’s paintings that you see in museums after seeing his original inspiration.

Velib

So I discovered something great in Paris this weekend... Velib!

Ok, so actually I have known about Velib since I arrived, but this past weekend was the first time that I tried it out for myself.

The best way I can think to describe Velib is a bike share program. There are these little stations all over the city, where bikes are parked and held in place by electronic machines. You go to the machine and pay (it's free for the first 30 minutes and then 1 euro after that-- much cheaper than taking a cab home after the metro closes) Anyways, then you take a bike and ride it to your desired destination and then when you get there you park your bike in another Velib station and it is considered returned.

It's honestly a great concept. My friend Cassie decided to try the Velib out together after we went to the Parisian nightclub, Social Club (of which we weren't exactly fans). Although we got a little lost, it probably would have been better to plan out our route before we started going, we made it home in not very much time at all and avoided a 15€ cab ride! (those add up quickly) We also had more fun riding the bikes around Paris than we had at the nightclub!

Paris is extremely bike friendly and there are bike lanes on most of the main streets so that you can stay out of the way of the cars and since I have a good amount of biking experience from my summer days on Fire Island, I felt like a pro! I will definitely start taking the Velib more often now that I know how to work them, especially since there is a station right outside my apartment building.

Art of Travel: Intrinsic Art

I cannot think of a better place than Paris to see some of the most beautiful works of art in the entire world. The city itself seems to be a work of art.

I think that New York City is a beautiful city, but it is completely different than the beauty that one can find in Paris. The beauty of NYC is almost calculated. The streets are easy to predict and the architecture is much more modern. One can appreciate the skill and technology that we went into planning these enormous buildings. Also, as much as others may disagree with me, I find a huge amount of beauty in the commercialism of the city. My favorite winter past time is going on a tour of all the major department store’s window displays and nothing beats walking down Fifth, Park, and 57^th marveling at the designer boutiques.

In Paris, the streets are sporadic, changing names at every turn and zigzagging across the city. Weaving you along through the intricate and ornate architecture that seems to adorn every single building. You don’t even have to step foot inside one of the many world famous museums to get a sense of the art and culture that the city contains.

Certainly Paris is a much older city than New York and these buildings were constructed during one of the most important and influential periods in the history of art. It makes sense that the city would be home to so many famous pieces.

I think the setting of Paris truly enhances the meaning behind these works. It is so moving to walk into the Louvre or the Pompidou, however different the two may be, and not only be overcome by the vast amount art that is available in one place but to also note the care and thought that went into creating these museums.

Some museums that I have been to in America are so plain as not to take away from the art that people come to see, but I find it so much more interesting to be able to see that place you are standing in as a work in and of itself.

This same concept applies not only to still art but also to performance art. The Paris Opéra, Palais Garnier, is by far the most stunningly opulent building I have ever been to in my life. I was lucky enough to see the Ballet, Giselle, last night and the experience was nothing short of magical. Not only because I adore the ballet but I can’t think of anything more fairy-tale like than walking up an enormous marble staircase and sitting beneath a crystal chandelier hung from a ceiling decorated with a mural by Chagall.

I am taking a class where we will be lucky enough to visit various museums, big and small, all over the city but during my journeys to these places, I hope that I will be able to take in all of the inherent “art” of the city.

Art of Travel: 128 Steps

The majority of my days here in Paris I wake up when I feel like it. My earliest class is at 12:30 PM, so I indulge in leisurely mornings, where I can wake up slowly check my email, enjoy breakfast and get ready without having to rush.

When I am in NYC, I wake up in the morning and hurriedly get ready for whatever my first activity is. Some days I am off to my work-study job with America reads and then I head to class while other days it’s the other way around. Two days of the week I spend a full (nine hour) day at my internship. I grab breakfast (a piece of toast, possibly a granola bar?) on my way out the door if I manage to think about it.

Once out the door. Paris seems to be moving at the same leisurely pace. No one is in a hurry and everyone seems to be enjoying their afternoon, while they take up the entire sidewalk. In NYC everyone is in also in a hurry, grabbing a coffee and the morning paper from the nearest stand, scurrying into the subway or waiting (impatiently) for the bus.

In both places, my commute to school is not far. Five minutes door-to-door in Paris and about ten in NYC. I really prefer walking to taking the bus or subway, especially if the weather is pleasant and I don’t have too far to go; however if I am going to work in NYC I usually need to take some form of public transportation as it is further away. In Paris, I have come to learn that if I am going anywhere outside of my own arrondisement I must take the metro and leave 30 minutes of travel time.

I try to find time to do my grocery shopping in NYC about once a week or every other week. I know exactly what I want and which brands I buy. There is always a list involved and it is almost always completed in its entirety. In Paris food shopping is a little more complicated. I try to use a list, but usually can’t manage to find everything on the list in one place. I have no idea what brands are the best here, so I buy whatever is the cheapest. (this is actually a rather nice naivety!) For some reason I find myself in the grocery store much more frequently here: almost everyday, buying one thing or another. Most things here are about the same price as in NYC but because of the awful exchange rate it ends up being a lot more. I really need to stop constantly doing conversions in my head…

Laundry is something I would prefer not to discuss. Let’s leave it at the fact that I did my laundry for the first time today (don’t judge… I still had clean underwear!!) and it was not a pleasant or economical situation. Laundry is always something that I avoid until it’s absolutely necessary, but here it was particularly dreadful.

When I return home at the end of the day, I have completely different experiences. In NYC, I walk up the stairs to my dorm room on the third floor. I have my friends and roommates waiting for me. Sometimes even a special treat in the form of baked goods from the master baker, Whitney. I enjoy my evening and relax for a little while doing whatever homework I have. In Paris I walk up the stairs to my studio apartment on the eighth floor (see post, “Why French Women Don’t Get Fat”) where I live alone; however, there is a great view of the Eiffel Tower from the top of my stairs and always the possibility that it will be sparkling, which inevitably makes even the worst day absolutely perfect.

Paris Fashion Week

Ladies and gentlemen, that time of the year is upon us. The time of year when fashionistas flock all over the world to take part in various fashion weeks...

For the past few seasons, I have been lucky enough to have had internships which granted me access to at least one show during NYC's fashion week and I have somehow managed to weasel my way into various other events.

Just to give a little background for those of you who may not be familiar with the experience of fashion week, it's an event that happens essentially twice a year, once in September and once in February (and for other designers maybe even two more times in December-pre-fall and June-resort) where all the designers present their collections. Spring is shown in September and Fall in February, because of course everything in fashion is done six months ahead, so that magazines and stylists have time to request and photograph items for their respective issues. Anyways in NYC, the epicenter of fashion week has been Bryant Park for the past several years. There is a giant tent and everyday swarms of editors, photographers, buyers, fashionistas, and celebrities flock to the tents to see the collections that will be shown. Sometimes, even the

lucky college student who spends her days pouring over the pages of Vogue can manage to sneak her way in... ;) The city is alive with a certain buzz of excitement and nerves during the week and of course all the models are in town so you can't even walk down the street with out finding yourself face to face with some 6 foot something glamazon. As Carrie Bradshaw put it best, "models who in most cities are safely confined to billboards and magazines, but in Manhattan, actually run wild on the streets."

How many hours will Marc Jacobs keep the audience waiting? Who will Cathy Horyn tear apart the next day? wait and see!

but I digress... My original point was that this year, I was not in my beloved NYC to enjoy fashion week. EVEN BETTER! I am in Paris. And did this aspiring fashionista sit on the sidelines? No she did not.

My Gallatin Advisor is a freelance fashion writer and she gets invited to all sorts of events for fashion week and she even wound up with an invite to a party for Camper and Bernhard Willhelm's recent collaboration here in Paris. Since she is in NY, she passed the invitation along to me! The event was really fun, and I was able to bring my friend Tribbie along with me. We mingled, saw the shoes (which were not my taste, but interesting to see) sipped champagne, and noshed hors d'oeuvres. In our mingling we met a photographer, who took our picture and then proceeded to start a conversation with us. He ended up offering to give us the tickets he had to shows that he could not attend. SCORE!

The first show was today. The designer was John Ribbe, and I have to be honest I had never heard of him before but his clothes were pretty cool and it was a great experience. He also gave us a ticket to Paul and Joe, which I absolutely love but unfortunately cannot attend because I have class at the exact same time! merde! But I told Tibbie to go and report back to me in full detail!

I really didn't think that I was going to be able to do anything for fashion week here in Paris, since I know from previous experience in NYC how hard it can be to get into shows and I had no connections to help me out. Considering, I think I fared pretty well and now that I have an international fashion week under my belt, who knows what's next...

Vaux-Le-Vicompte

Today was Vaux-Le-Vicompte Day!

Vaux-Le-Vicompte is a Chateau about an hour

and a half outside of Paris and also the site of

Eva Longoria and Tony Parker's recent nuptials. NYU Paris, offered a cultural excursion to all the people in the program this semester. The offer: "Free" (I say it in quotes because my tuition is $40,000/ yr so I'm am pretty sure they can throw in a lunch somewhere in there, but that's

just me being cynical...) trip to the castle for the day and a promised gourmet lunch. I signed up for the trip right away and I have been excited for it all week, despite my hesitations as to how gourmet, this "gourmet" lunch would be.

This day did not disappoint. We met around 9:30 AM to take the buses out of the city. When we got to the castle a little after 11:00AM, we went on a walking tour around the castle. Seeing the interior and everything was really neat, although I was a little let down by the upkeep of the castle. I didn't feel like it had been preserved all that well but it was beautiful none the less!

After the tour. The whole group met back up in a private room to have our grand lunch. I have to say it was nothing short of fabulous! A true three course meal which started with a delicious quiche and salad (obviously I didn't eat the salad, but everyone else liked it) then moved to the main course of duck, potatoes, and carrots and finally the scrumptious chocolate moelleux (molten chocolate) cake. They also served us coffee after the whole meal! Can you say food coma??

After the lunch we had a couple hours to explore the grounds of the castle so my friends and I rented a golf cart to drive around. This was hysterical and so much fun! Several other NYU students had rented the carts as well so we were all whipping around and just generally having a great time. It was a gorgeous fall day and it felt so good to be outside and enjoy the gardens and amazing scenery!

I am always a little apprehensive for school sponsored events because I feel like they never live up to expectations, but this whole trip has probably been one of my favorite days I have had thus far in Paris.